7/14/2023 0 Comments Long flexible drill bit for wiringHave an assistant pluck the hanger from above, while I crawl underneath with a drill, fish tape, electrical tape, staple gun, and flashlight. Unchuck the wire, leave the hanger in the floor for now. Drill a tiny hole in the floor, right up against the baseboard (or behind the baseboard). Use the bracket as a guide, and a level to make it look nice.Ĭhuck an insulation hanger wire in a drill, like a drill bit. Put the same number of stripes on the end of each corresponding cable. It may even be required by code in your area. To avoid humidity issues, use spray foam to seal around the cables. (electrical runs, walls, etc.) If nothing else, you can use plumbing or electrical for identifying where the walls are from below. I cut the hole for the box first, then check to verify the location of the studs (I don't use hardware that requires me to attach to a stud, so I just have to make sure to miss it when cutting my hole), then measure off of some reference point that I'll be able to find down below. You only need to line up well enough to get it in the same bay, so you have a ~14.5" target. I don't know of any other way to get cables/pipes through the sill other than drilling, and it's allowed for plumbing, electrical, etc, so long as you then spray foam the holes afterwards (at least, it's required in my area, might not be in yours). What what you're planning already, I'd likely run an extra cat5e/cat6 cable, and then get an HDMI-over-twisted-pair (aka HDMI-over-cat5) extender if you wanted to go that route, or re-terminate it for RJ11 if you wanted to change it over to phone. It's easier to run lots of cables at once. Also, you then don't have to worry about crowding the box, etc. which you can't do as easily if you mount a box with little punchouts. (if you have a second person, have them push the cables up from below (or a straightened coat hanger or other wire to act as a needle, if the bundle of cables is too floppy), and then snag it from the hole with a wire bent into a hook). You're better off going with a backless box like the one you linked to, because it makes running cables so much easier. You've got a lot of different questions, so I'll try to answer the ones I can:Ĭoax sucks because of the necessary bend. I'm a little concerned about moisture coming in from the crawl space. Use some Leviton Quickport wall plates and snap in connectors.I'm looking at the following products to make my life easier. Is there a way to make these two holes line up? From the room above, I would then need to cut a hole through the plaster. Is this recommended, or does it cause any structural issues? I would be drilling the hole from the crawlspace up into the wall. It looks like many people drill a hole through the sill plate and then route the cables through the hole. I need to get the cables from behind the wall into the crawlspace. I have a raised crawlspace (4 feet high or more). Since I have existing wires in the box, will routing new cables through this box and through be a problem? I might want to run additional wires into this box later, such as phone cable for our DSL connection, or maybe an HDMI connection to another room (but this is a fantasy). Will this gang box will be too crowded? Is there an easy way to give me more space inside the gang box, or to deal with the thick coaxial cable? The cables are Ethernet, coaxial-something (for a roof mounted UHF/VHF TV antenna which we haven't installed yet) and speaker wire. I would like to run three low-voltage cables from my entertainment center through an old plaster wall, down (1-3 feet) through the sill plate, and into the crawlspace.
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